Catalan Cuisine by Colman Andrews

Catalan Cuisine by Colman Andrews

Author:Colman Andrews [Andrews, Colman]
Language: eng
Format: epub
Publisher: Harvard Common Press


La Calçotada

The problem with reproducing a calçotada in America is simply finding the calçots. I see no reason why they can't be grown here, of course, according to the vague directions given on [>]; I'm trying it myself, in fact, in coastal Southern California, though I haven't yet reaped my first crop as I write this. In the meantime—a year-and-a-half admittedly being a long time in advance to worry about what you're going to have for lunch on a particular late winter afternoon—ordinary green onions or scallions will do. They won't have the long, sweet white portion calgots have, but if you choose the fattest ones possible, at least an inch in diameter, you'll be able to get the general idea. Leeks won't work, incidentally; they're wrong in both flavor and texture.

Theoretically, a calgotada should in volve a lot of people—a dozen, a score, a hundred. Cooking enough green onions for a large crowd, however, will tax most backyard barbecues— and there's no reason why you can't prepare a miniversion of the feast for four or six (or even two). The following recipe, then, gives quantities for one person only, so that you can expand it as needed. The salsa formula is approximately that used by El Celler, as given to me by the restaurant's proprietors, Maria-Teresa Cornet and Ramon Lluís. As usual in such matters, there are, of course, numerous variations possible (one of which appears on [>]).



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